There are foods that, beyond being delicious, carry for those who eat them a heavy symbolic meaning; this is true of glutinous rice cakes, ubiquitous in the cuisines of Southeast Asia, particularly seen in Cambodia, Vietnam, China, and Laos. The cake in question today is known as នំអន្សម (num ânsâm) in Khmer.
These cakes are composed of glutinous rice—sometimes tinted with natural colorings or flavorings—generously filled with, for example, banana or jackfruit (for the sweet version), or pork (for the savory version), and mung beans. Traditionally, they are tightly wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. The cylindrical shape and the care given to the wrapping allude to ritual significance, especially during certain celebrations such as Pchum Ben or Khmer New Year.
After being steamed, these cakes can be enjoyed hot, at room temperature, or even cold. The sweet version has sticky, fragrant rice encasing a core of ripe banana; as for the savory version, the meat imparts a rich umami flavor, while the fat gently seeps into the rice during cooking, giving everything a moist and soft texture.
Such cakes are offered to monks and ancestors as part of the rites, and their shape and composition often carry meanings of unity and prosperity for the community. Preparing these cakes is usually a collective undertaking—family and neighbors gather for hours of activity, which transforms a culinary task into a social and cultural event. (Check our video of the preparation of num ânsâm in a fanmily setting.)
Making “num ânsâm” at home is possible. The method involves:
- Soaking the glutinous rice for several hours (or even overnight).
- Preparing banana leaves by washing, softening, and cutting them to size.
- Laying a bed of rice on the leaf, placing the filling (banana, pork, jackfruit, and mung beans), then covering with more rice.
- Rolling the whole into a tight cylinder and tying it securely with twine.
- Steaming the bundles for several hours.
Once cooled, the cakes should be cut into thick slices before serving. They keep very well in a cool place and can be reheated by steaming. They can also be cut into slices and sautéed with oil in a pan. In Cambodia, these cakes are frequently sold at markets or by street vendors, found in offerings during religious celebrations, and represent a culinary gateway into Khmer traditions.
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